Introduction

Off-White, Common Projects, Alyx—these three brands each represent an American label headquartered in Italy. While Italy has long been considered the hegemon of luxury clothing, one cannot help but wonder why many American designers relocate their fashion houses to the “Boot,” specifically Milan. To answer such a question, this project examines the fusion of Italian-American design and why even international brands crave the crucial “Made-in-Italy” tagline. The paragraphs that follow dissect the quality, history, and uniqueness of garments produced in Italy. The brands headlined above will establish a framework to evaluate the role of Italian materials combined with American design and creative direction.

Common Projects

Beginning with the label Common Projects, the brand is renowned for its leather goods. This collaboration between American art director Prathan Poopat and Italian creative consultant Flavio Girolami yielded iconic luxury footwear produced in Italy. Known for sleek and minimalist silhouettes, Common Projects utilizes high-quality Nappa leather in Italy to fabricate its shoes. The initial goal of the brand was to create the perfect sneaker, and making the shoe in Italy proved paramount to this ideal. With these two designers, one can already see why having the sneakers “Made-in-Italy” was so important; the excellent craftsmanship and materials allowed for unparalleled success. Additionally, the Italian roots from Girolami influenced the decision to seek out Italian expertise.

Alyx Studios

Next on the list comes Alyx Studios, a brand founded in New York by Matthew Williams but relocated to Italy (Williams himself lives and works in Milan). Why did this move to Italy occur? Williams’ decision ultimately came from an Italian friend of his, Mr. Benini who was working to bring California surf and skate brands such as Stussy to Italy. Seeking to create a line of his own, Mr. Benini enlisted the help of Williams, and the two utilized Italian craftsmanship in making Alyx. Once again, one can see the crossover of American creative direction combined with fine Italian materials. The street, Gothic, and military influences of Williams’ design allowed for the creation of a unique label that stood apart from other big-name fashion houses. Apart from his friend Mr. Benini, Williams favored Italy for its high-quality materials, similar to Common Projects. Furthermore, the location of Milan provided clear-cut access to the global sphere of fashion. The dichotomy of Italian sartorial heritage with new, innovative design places Alyx in a position that few other brands can replicate.

Off-White

One cannot dig deep into modern luxury fashion without encountering the name Virgil Abloh. The American designer has been making waves across global fashion houses. Though Abloh possesses a myriad of creative abilities ranging from architecture to DJ’ing, his self-created label Off-White serves as another excellent example of American influence in Italy. Heavily inspired by street-wear, Off-White focuses on garments that some may consider basics such as t-shirts. Abloh, for instance, produces these shirts in Italian factories typically reserved for high-end designer garments such as suits. Thus, Off-White symbolizes the fusion of streetwear, originating in the United States, with high fashion hailing from Italy. Living in Milan, Abloh can engage with the fashion community while still relegating the fabrication of garments to Italian craftsmanship. As a current leader in fashion, Abloh’s relocation to Milan makes perfect sense.

Conclusion

So, what’s the deal with “Made-in-Italy” for American designers? Common Projects, Alyx Studios, and Off-White all demonstrate commonalities. Foremost, one cannot deny the quality of Italian materials. Whether making leather shoes or cotton t-shirts, the resources offered by a location such as Milan provide unrivaled craftsmanship. Furthermore, American designers utilize the rich Italian history in fashion to complement their new ideas. Lastly, Italy serves as a hub for fashion on a global scale. Because of these reasons, it is no wonder brands “Made-in-Italy” carry such prestige.